Cleanse thoroughly
Remove all makeup and oil with an oil-free lash cleanser, then wipe through with a protein remover pad. Any residue creates a barrier between lash and lotion, and patchy processing is the number-one cause of uneven results. Lashes must be completely dry before you continue.
Isolate the lower lashes
Place under-eye pads over the lower lashes, and secure with micropore tape if needed. Lower lashes that sneak into the lifting lotion will curl downwards — check isolation carefully at the outer corners.
Select and fit the shield
Shield size controls the result:
Small
Strongest curl
Suits short lashes, or clients wanting a dramatic lift.
Medium
The everyday choice
Balanced curl on average-length lashes.
Large
A softer lift
Suits long lashes — a small shield on long lashes creates over-curl.
Assessing where the apex of the lash shield sits against the length of the lashes is paramount. Fit the shield snug against the lash line on the closed eyelid, using the lift adhesive if necessary. A gap between shield and lash line produces a kinked, inconsistent curl — while avoiding “flipping the lid”, which can result in underwhelming results.
Lift the lashes onto the shield
Apply a thin line of adhesive to the shield, then use your lifting tool to comb the lashes up onto it — straight, evenly separated, no crossovers, no twisted lashes. This is the step that decides the final look. Take your time: every crossed lash sets crossed. Work from the inner corner out, and check your work from above before moving on.
Apply the lifting lotion
Apply the lifting (perming) lotion from the base of the lashes to no more than two-thirds of the way up. Never coat the tips — they're the oldest, most fragile part of the lash and will over-process first.
Processing time depends on lash strength:
- Fine or previously treated lashes: 6–8 minutes
- Average lashes: 8–10 minutes
- Coarse, strong lashes: 10–12 minutes
Follow your system's specified times — they vary between brands. Cover with cling film if your system directs it. When in doubt, under-process. An under-lifted lash can be re-treated; an over-processed lash is damaged for a full growth cycle.
Pro check
Part way through the service and prior to removing lotion, use your tweezers to “flex check” an individual lash (usually in the middle, where the most resistant lashes can be) to confirm the bonds have been broken.
Remove and apply the setting lotion
Remove the lifting lotion completely with a dry micro brush or cotton tip — don't drag the lashes off the shield. Apply the setting (neutralising) lotion the same way, over the same zone, for the time your system specifies (typically 4–6 minutes, or roughly half the lift time). This rebuilds the bonds in their new curled shape.
Tint — optional, but book it as lift-and-tint
With the lashes still on the shield, apply lash tint from base to tip and process for 3–5 minutes. The lift opens the lash cuticle, so tint takes faster and darker than on untreated lashes — a lift-and-tint gives a genuinely mascara-like finish and is an easy upsell that most clients never go back from.
Cleanse, nourish and release
Remove all product residue, apply a keratin or nourishing serum along the lashes, then gently ease the lashes off the shield with a clean mascara wand. Remove the shield and under-eye pads, and brush the lashes into place.